Ajay, since I never mentioned any of these places, I can only presume that trying to misinterpret people is the only way you get your kicks. The simple point I was trying to make – albeit perhaps not clearly enough for you? – is that it would be a shame if someone trying to get a sense of London only went to the familiar spots on the tourist trail, many amongst which are typical of London’s bourgeois colonial past. Whereas visiting one of the more diverse boroughs (or going to a football match) would do something to broaden the experience they had. Visiting London ISN’T just about looking at bricks; it IS also about observing ways of life, right? But this conversation of ours isn’t working very well, so I should give up I guess.

Thanks for those who provided the pointer re: Silver Moon – I’ll know where to catch it next time.

Kings Cross is an austere bit of early Victorian railroad architecture and quite lovely (seen from the top deck of a bus outside) except there is this 1960s extension on the front which is quite quite ugly—but you can see the symmetric trace of the Victorian building if you look up. But platform 9 3/4 is in at the back to the left (ie west).

St. Pancras is across the street to the West, newly restored, and includes Gilbert Scott’s incredible piece of Victorian wedding cake architecture, the St. Pancras Hotel. Which is worth a look (from the outside, the hotel isn’t reopened yet). And inside has been hugely opened out to accommodate the Eurostars from Paris.

There is something very special about Paddington’s arches though, one of the many reasons Brunel is in the top 10 of the ‘Greatest Britons’. My father stood at the back and watched a German V1 bomb fly over, one day in 1944.

No London rail station, to my knowledge, has either the sort of greasy spoon cafe they used to have, with egg and chips for 2 and 6 pence. Nor a really nice cafe, with proper coffee and a sense of peace. Instead they are terribly chain-stored and cafed, commercial and dirty.

To contemplate London from a cafe:

any other thoughts?

106
Yes cabs are expensive. But they do get you there, as fast and efficiently as possible, and depending on the driver, quite entertainingly.

I’ve had trouble with Scottish notes in several places, but maybe they are more widely accepted than I believed. Don’t try it in Essex (E. of London), though—the locals will delight in telling you they are not accepted.

One problem is simply the fear of fakes. The shop staff get punished if they accept fakes, and Scottish notes are unfamiliar, particularly to the Polish girls who man (woman?) our cafes these days.

Ulster notes would be even trickier.

And I’ve never had problems with Scottish notes in London – maybe taxi drivers would be awkward. They generally are.
Avoid black cabs unless you are very rich. Even then, you won’t be after the ride finishes.

The Tube closes about 8pm from memory, ditto the buses check http://www.tfl.gov.uk . The streets empty after 4pm, most bars and restaurants will be closed by 6pm (not sure about right downtown in the tourist areas).

So make sure you have a planned way home (the taxis won’t be out either). If you need a minicab on Xmas day, you need to book in advance (a minicab that will pick you up on the street without prebooking is 1). committing a crime and 2). an invitation to a ripoff—don’t get in without negotiating a fee beforehand to your destination). In fact don’t take any minicab without agreeing the fare beforehand.

There is nothing to do in London on Xmas Eve than go to church—which is itself a magnificent experience if you can get in: both the Catholics and the Anglicans put on their best (Brompton Oratory for the Catholics—huge queues but it’s a choir school, so lovely music). St. Paul’s on Xmas Eve would be fantastic (and has more space than Westminster Abbey)—again be prepared to queue. England may be a secular country, but not on Xmas Eve. For traditional liturgy (but massively liberal congregation and priest) try St. James’s on Piccadilly (Wren Church). Any Anglican church in the country will bring down a rousing hymn: I dare you to keep a dry eye if they sing our unofficial national anthem ‘Jerusalem’ with words by William Blake*. Your local pub might be serving locals, but I wouldn’t count on it—check.

You could walk around the streets, and marvel at how such a great city could fall, for a moment, silent. From the Millennium Bridge (St. Paul’s) or the Hungerford Bridge (Waterloo) it will look quite magical.

Xmas Day there will be almost nothing open (some pubs, perhaps). Check with your hotel about open local restaurants. Time for that walk along the Thames or in Green Park/Hyde Park or, if you can get there, Hampstead Heath.

Boxing Day life (and the sales) returns. That which decides to pay the fine and open for sales on Boxing Day eg on Oxford Street, is hellish. Not sure which (if any) museums open Boxing Day, but the British Museum is.

New Year’s Eve is of course the reverse problem. Everything is open, everything is charging an admission charge, everything is booked. Again you need to make plans in advance, or join the drunken crowds in Trafalgar Square. My experience of Hogmanay (New Years) in Edinburgh was of being swept off my feet by the screaming crowd—not pleasant. Again you need a ticket to get into Central Edinburgh—they have barriers. The Scots take NY so seriously that they have 2 days off, not one day, to sleep off the hangover.

• (the myth referred to in the hymn is the West Country tale that Jesus, in company with Joseph of Arimithea, paid an incognito visit to Cornwall and Devon before the events chronicled in the New Testament)

http://www.cyberhymnal.org/htm/j/e/r/jerusalem.htm
Jerusalem Hymn

And did those feet in ancient time
Walk upon England’s mountain green?
And was the holy Lamb of God
On England’s pleasant pastures seen?
And did the countenance divine
Shine forth upon our clouded hills?
And was Jerusalem builded here
Among those dark satanic mills?

Bring me my bow of burning gold!
Bring me my arrows of desire!
Bring me my spear! O clouds, unfold!
Bring me my chariot of fire!
I will not cease from mental fight,
Nor shall my sword sleep in my hand,
Till we have built Jerusalem
In England’s green and pleasant land.

I enjoyed walking under the Thames to Greenwich, coming up the steps to see the Cutty Sark directly in front of me.

The difference between English debate and American debate is clear at Speaker’s Corner. In England, there is give and take, heckling and argument between the speaker and the crowd. It is taken for granted. In the US, the speaker is the only one who gets to speak and any interruption is unheard of and likely to get you reprimanded, removed, or, now, tasered. And during the time set aside for questions, please no speeches or comments but only questions. It’s a kind of reverse Jeopardy because we seem not to be adult enough to have a conversation and are thus unable to reply to comments that don’t include a question mark.

1. the National—good deals on tix, and they have a cafe where you can get a reasonably priced meal beforehand; plus you’re on the water (also can check out the film center, which often has great stuff on).

2. Riverside Studios and the Lyric in Hammersmith—slightly more adventurous fare than you’ll see in town, and less expensive and better, in general—plus more foreign companies come through, so more variety

3. The Bush, Gate, Royal Court theaters—small places, lots of new plays by young & upcoming playwrights

And any of these could be great for kids depending on what’s on. It’s winter, go sit in a dark room for a couple of hours and be entertained. You can drink before and after (and during, of course). And ice cream at the interval…somebody buy me a ticket, I need a vacation.

Most places do in fact accept Scottish notes (and NI notes too, though with more trouble as about three or four banks issue them (or did, the last time I had any)). It just takes a bit of polite negotiation (and the odd bald-faced lie to the shop assistant.) You may have trouble in a corner shop, but most big shops shouldn’t quibble.

Near Columbia Road Flower Market is also Broadway Market – also worth a look for extremely good (if pricey) food.

Kings Cross is worth it if you are a Harry Potter fan, I suppose, but otherwise to be avoided – it’s crowded and grim. Paddington is a much nicer station if you’re into Victorian railway architecture (and who isn’t?)